Updated October 14, 2026 · USAutozilla
Short answer: the manufacturer’s build plate is what proves a car is old enough to import, and the VIN is not a substitute for it. NHTSA counts the 25 years from the date of manufacture, so a car that is clearly “a 2001” on paper can still be too young by two months. Get a sharp photograph of the plate before you pay a deposit — not after the car is bought, and not after it is on a ship.
Why the plate and not the VIN
In the United States, VIN position 10 encodes the model year, under 49 CFR 565.15(d)(1) and its year table. That is a useful shortcut for a US-market car and a trap for a European one, for two reasons.
- Model year is not build month. Even where position 10 decodes cleanly, it gives you a model year. NHTSA counts from the date of manufacture. A car sold as a 2001 model may have been built in late 2000 — in your favour — or in mid-2001 — against you.
- European-market cars do not always follow the US convention. Many manufacturers used position 10 for something else entirely on cars never intended for the US. A US VIN decoder will often return nothing at all for a Lancia, an Alpina or a Matra, and when it does return something, it may be wrong.
The plate carries the month and year the car left the factory. That is the number the 25-year rule is measured against.
What NHTSA accepts as proof of age
The build plate is the normal evidence. Where no such label exists — and on genuinely old or low-volume cars it sometimes does not — NHTSA accepts:
- an invoice showing the date of first sale;
- a registration document showing the car was registered at least 25 years ago;
- a statement from a recognised vehicle historical society identifying the vehicle’s age.
A marque archive letter — Porsche Classic, Mercedes-Benz Classic, the Alpina build certificate — falls into that last category and is worth having anyway on a valuable car, because it also establishes specification and provenance. We cover the paperwork itself in HS-7 and EPA 3520-1 explained.
What to ask the seller for, before the deposit
This is the list we send to every European seller. It takes them five minutes and it removes the only risk that cannot be fixed later.
- The build plate, photographed straight on and in focus, close enough to read every line — not at an angle, not in the dark of a door shut, not a phone screenshot of an old photo.
- The VIN stamped in the bodyshell, and the VIN on the plate, in two separate photos. They must match each other and match the registration document.
- The registration document, both sides, showing the date of first registration.
- Any factory or archive documentation the car came with.
If a seller will not photograph the plate, that is the answer to the question. On a car this old it is the single cheapest piece of due diligence there is.
The failure modes we actually see
- Off by a few months. The commonest one. The car is advertised by model year, the plate says a later month, and the car is not yet eligible. It is not a negotiation — a vehicle that is too young can be refused entry, exported at your cost or seized.
- First registration mistaken for build date. European listings almost always show the first registration, which can be months or over a year after manufacture. It is good news when it hides an earlier build date, and useless as proof either way. This is why our listings say “First reg.” and not “Built”.
- Plate missing or repainted. Restored cars lose plates. That is survivable using the alternative evidence above, but it has to be sorted out before shipping, not at the port.
- Replacement or re-stamped VIN. A shell change or a re-stamp without documentation is a different and much bigger problem, and it is a reason to walk away.
- Decoder confidence. Someone runs the VIN through a US decoder, gets a year, and treats it as settled. For a European car that number is at best an indication.
If the car is not eligible yet
That is not necessarily a dead end. We buy cars in Europe before they qualify, keep them, and ship them in the month they become legal — which also means buying ahead of the price rise that tends to come with a model’s 25th birthday. See the European cars turning 25 in 2027.
What we do on every car
We photograph the plate and the stamped VIN before a car is bought, check the month against the entry date rather than the purchase date, and send the photo set with the offer. If the plate and the paperwork disagree, we say so and we do not ship the car. Start a custom search or see the current inventory.
Sources
- 49 CFR 591.5(i) and NHTSA form HS-7 (25 years from the date of manufacture).
- NHTSA guidance on evidence of a vehicle’s age where no manufacturer label exists.
- 49 CFR 565.15(d)(1) and Table VII (VIN position 10, model year).
General information, not legal advice. Your customs broker confirms eligibility on the entry date.
Shipping method: RoRo or container, and what each one allows.
Looking for a specific European car?
We find it in Europe, have it inspected where it is, and deliver it to a US port with the import paperwork done. Start a custom search or browse the inventory.
